Walking the Wales Coast Path - Swansea and Gower Region
When I decided to take on the challenge of walking the Wales Coast Path I felt fairly confident that I must have done quite a bit of it already, especially the Swansea and Gower region, since this is where we live, and have walked many a walk. So I had a little look over on their website to see exactly what area that region covered, and started marking off on their checklist which bits I had done.
It turned out that whilst I had walked most of it, there were quite a few small gaps that I needed to fill in, as well as the long stretch from Margam to Swansea that I had never walked. Getting the whole region completed quickly definitely felt realistic, and when I found out you could get little patches for each complete section I suddenly found the motivation I needed.
In November 2020, With winter well and truly upon us, and my work on pause due to covid restrictions, I set about spending as many days when the children were in school walking. I finally completed the whole region about one week before Wales went back into a very strict, stay home lockdown in December 2020. I am so glad I managed to get it done before I had to put my challenge on pause.
I’ve written a little bit about each of the sections of the Swansea and Gower region, with tips and advice if you are looking to walk it yourself.
Margam to the Marina
This was the section of the coastal path that I hadn’t done any of, and I hope this doesn’t offend anyone, but it is my least favourite section so far. I ended up doing this walk over the course of 3 days, in very close succession as I just wanted to get it ticked off.
I started with a relatively short walk from Kenfig sands (technically part of the Cardiff section of the walk) to Margam moors. It was mostly coastal, and pretty, but it wasn’t long before heading off into woods that seemed to go on for ages, and weren’t the nicest. I was limited with time by the school run so I had to turn back after about 4 miles. I dropped a pin on google maps and then on my next walk parked as close to that pin as I could and walked back to it, before turning around and walking back in the other direction to take on a bit more of the Margam section.
I was only planning on walking a few miles on this day, just trying to get the Margam section of the walk completed, but once I saw how much the route was just walking along main roads, I decided I really didn’t want to have to turn around and walk back the same way to my car. So instead I called my husband to see if he could pick me up later in the day and drive me back to my car. He said he could but it would have to be after picking up the kids from schools, so he wouldn’t get to me until about 4pm. It was only 11am at this point, but I was excited for a whole day of walking and getting a big chunk ticked off. I made it to Aberavon by lunch time, sadly this was actually the only bit of beach on that entire walk, and after making a stop to use the toilets and stocking up on snacks in a shop to keep me going, I headed on towards Swansea.
I could actually see parts of the University bay campus in the distance, and felt hopeful it wasn’t much further to get me back. Had I known I’d be walking this section I would have researched it and known not to be so silly. The path quickly turned away from the coast and started heading along the river towards the motorway. My heart sank; more roads! The coastal path actually goes up and over the dual carriageway and all along the main road into Swansea. It was raining by this point and it was a very slow, long walk along the road. It was almost time for my husband to come and get me at this point and I knew I was nearly at the University so I told him to pick me up from there. The path actually veered off again before there towards Jersey Marine, so I dropped another google pin for where I would need to re-start my walk another day and went and found a bench to sit in the rain and rest my very weary feet. I walked a total of 16 miles that day, my longest walk to date, and definitely the hardest.
A couple of days later, I got my husband to drop me off at Jersey Marine and started the walk back to the Marina to finally finish the Margam section of the walk. I ended up walking all the way to Blackpill that day, and as soon as I got to the marina the walk once again became coastal and a lot prettier and more enjoyable.
There are so many sections of the coastal path I know I will re-visit many times. But I will gladly never walk this section again. It is done, it was worth it to tick it off, but never again.
Marina to Pwll Du
The section of the coastal path from the Marina round to Caswell bay, is a section I have walked many times. The path is very easy, and for large sections is a lovely wide cycle path that goes right along Swansea Bay. Once you get to Mumbles it becomes a bit more cliff based, but it is a still a very good path to walk on, and as such we often walk sections of this walk with our children. From Caswell round to Pwll Du it becomes a bit more precarious but it is still a very lovely walk along the cliff side. The only sections from the Marina right through to Pwll Du that I had never walked were from Caswell round to Brandy Cove. So one afternoon when I had a little bit of time I headed off and ticked off that very short 1 mile stretch of the coastal path.
Pwll Du to Rhossili
Despite spending a lot of time on the beaches along the section of the coast from Pwll Du to Rhossili, there were actually quite a few large chunks I had not walked. I started with a walk from Pennard back to Pwll Du, it took 2 attempts as at first I went with the family and we managed to lose the coastal path markers and ended up down by a beach instead of up on the cliff tops, so by the time we got back up the hill the children weren’t willing to go any further. I paid a bit more attention on the second attempt and managed to follow the coastal path round towards Pwll Du. It was so muddy in sections that it really didn’t feel very safe. I’d definitely recommend avoiding this section in winter.
From Pennard in the other direction right round to Oxwich, I have walked many times, as it is a gorgeous stretch of coast with so many stunning beaches. We have often walked there with the children in small chunks, and if you take a look at your OS map there are a lot of footpaths around this area that mean you can easily tackle this section over one or two nice circular walks to save having to double back.
One small section I had never done was Oxwich to Slade, and it turned out to be a gorgeous walk through the woods along the cliffs above Oxwich and then along the coast towards Slade. I was able then to follow the footpaths above Slade, through the farm and caravan park, and then back down the main road into Oxwich again. Making for a lovely circular walk.
The section from Slade to Overton I had done in various chunks many times. It is worth noting there is a very frustrating diversion at Slade, that takes you above and round a field that you can see across, but for whatever reason aren’t allowed to cut through. The walk round then to Horton is really easy, and it’s just a small uphill climb above Port Eynon to get you over the cliffs to Overton.
Overton to Rhossilli I actually had a lot of gaps to fill in. I had walked from Rhossili to Fall Bay many times, but never round to Mewslade from there, opting to always park in the farm car park for that beach. The section is very picturesque but it is all cliff tops, and some sections feel a bit precarious, especially in the wetter winter months. There is a small downhill section of the path to get you to Mewslade which I walked at a snail’s pace to get down as it was basically a muddy slip and slide, but I made it without falling. The path between Mewslade and Overton was a lot longer than I was expecting but the path was easy to walk and to follow, and there were lots of little coves I could see down below, that I hope to explore further when the weather is better. It was good to get that longer chunk ticked off, but I still can’t believe I’d been neglecting that section thus far.
Rhossili to Lougher
The section from Rhossili round to Lougher was one of the more patchy stretches. There were lots of areas I had walked countless times, but quite a few connecting stretches between beaches that I had missed. I had to fill in the gaps between Burry Holms and Llanmadoc; the path goes over the hill but I’m lazy and tend to opt for actually walking along the beach wherever possible, and this is one of those sections I’d recommend doing just that. I then needed to walk out to the lighthouse and around Cwm Ivy. I’d done lots of walks in these woods before, but not actually gone all the way to the end or to the lighthouse. Well worth the walk, and one i’ve already repeated. After completing all of these gaps I had saved one last big walk to complete the Swansea and Gower section; Llanmadoc to Crofty. (The section from Crofty to Loughor I had completed already) It wasn’t the prettiest stretch as it is mostly fields, and estuary and marsh land, but it was still lovely, if not a tad muddy. (I would recommend saving this walk for spring or summer, as in December it was basically pure bog.) And just like that I had filled in all of the gaps, and the Swansea and Gower section of the Wales coast path was complete. I can’t wait to keep walking and complete some more sections.